An evening in Milan? New haunts channelling design, gourmet cuisine, wine and signature cocktails

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salonemilano, Contraste by Debonademeo Studio

Contraste by Debonademeo Studio - Ph. Serena Eller Vainicher

A selection of newly-opened eateries around the city, from local trattorie resembling Parisian bistros, to wine bars, chic delis with outside seating, contemporary-style fine dining and traditional restaurants serving handed down family recipes

Milan never sleeps. Watched over by the ‘Madonnina’ gilded statue of the Virgin Mary on the cathedral, new shop signs are added to the list of "must try" addresses each month, mapping out a continuous evolution in terms of experiences and expectations. But given that having to wait one’s turn is tedious, double shifts and fully booked venues are always a risk, here’s a selection of new haunts dotted around the city: contemporary-style fine dining, chic delis with outdoor seating, local trattorie, wine and cocktail bars well worth a visit, in which the atmosphere and just the right mix of cuisine and design has a key role to play. Because “we also eat with our eyes.”

salonemilano, Silvano - vini e cibi al banco by Cesare Battisti — Silvano - vini e cibi al banco by Cesare Battisti

Silvano - vini e cibi al banco

It’s been on everyone’s lips ever since it first opened. A natural winery championing small producers, a bar, bakery and also a bistro. It’s hard to put one’s finger on Cesare Battisti and the chef Vladimiro Poma Silvan’s latest venture - Vini e Cibi al Banco - an eatery that reflects the trendy, multiethnic soul of NoLo, once a suburban district, now one of the coolest in the city. The space contains a 14-metre-long counter, a dozen or so stools and a handful of small tables. Reclaimed ceramic plates, Seventies lamps, wrought iron windows overlooking the square: stories and tales are interwoven, while the smell of bread and ragù pervades the air. The internal kitchen is dominated by an enormous bread oven, in which everything is cooked. The dishes change with the seasons, but the Nervetti alla Milanese, Salsa Tonnata with capers, raw fish, oven-cooked risotto, chicken liver paté, flash-fried anchovies… never fail to please!
Where: Piazza Morbegno, 2

salonemilano, Bar Nico by Marco Mannacio Soderini — Bar Nico by Marco Mannacio Soderini - Ph. Alessandro Saletto, DSL Studio

Bar Nico

Sought-after Italian, French and Spanish wines paired with nibbles such as cheese and cured meats with brioches, various types of conserves, smoked sardines, marinated olives and artisan taralli. Among the coloured houses and Art Deco buildings in the Acquabella district, four corner shop windows mark out the Bar Nico. Previously home to a tyre shop, and a traditional pasta factory of which the sign still remains, it is now a stylishly recherché wine bar, conceived by Chiara Pino and Riccardo Ganelli, who tired of the fashion world. The 75 m2 space, with a somewhat Nordic atmosphere, was designed by the architect Marco Mannacio Soderini, of SagomaStudio, who worked on the coverings and surfaces inspired by what was already there, such as the grit floor, to achieve a balance between past and present. The warm colours of the walls and ceilings dialogue with materials found in the furnishings, such as concrete, wood and steel, as well as in the bar area, lit by ceiling-mounted polycarbonate panels above the striking concrete and steel counter.
Where: Via Cesare Saldini, 2

Autem

“At Autem* it’s not the chef who chooses the menu, it’s the ingredients,” the Tuscan-born chef Luca Natalini likes to say. By the age of just 14 he was already in Paris learning the techniques and secrets of French cuisine, before flying off to Prague, then Vienna, topped off by five years in Russia. Just a stone’s throw from Porta Romana, the chef and his brigade at Autem – a little gem boasting haute cuisine and cool vibes – welcomes guests to his open kitchen which overlooks a large, fluid and welcoming space that becomes an island between the food preparation area and the tables (8 for a total of 30 covers). The menu is a constantly changing carte blanche dictated by nature, in traditional “cuisine du marché” style. As well as the famous Pasta in Bianco - spaghetti cooked in a decoction of bay leaf then creamed with plum vermouth and apple vinegar - the chef’s other signature dishes include snails in the manner of a bourguignonne, a bold horse and oyster dish, and a salad of smoked eel. The interior reflects the sophisticated feel of the kitchen, with ribbed oak counters boasting Tuscan marble tops, parquet and ceramic floors, wood and brass shelving with pieces by Fornasetti rubbing shoulders with art objects, vases and books.
Where: Via Serviliano Lattuada, 2

salonemilano, EGGS by Lula Ferrari — EGGS by Lula Ferrari - Ph. Pierpaolo Lo Giudice

EGGS

Following its success in Rome’s Trastevere, EGGS has opened in the heart of Milan’s Brera district. Helming the brigade is the chef Barbara Agosti, famous for concepts such as Strapazzo, also featured on Masterchef and Gioco dell’Ova, a choreographic taster featuring six eggshells served in a typical cardboard box and filled with unexpected morsels. Their signature dish is the Carta delle Carbonare: 12 variations of carbonara, all based on the classic recipe but with a number of different options, all ranked according to the colour of the ingredients. The restaurant is known for the originality (and the design) of its offerings and  careful sourcing of the raw materials. The wine list contains over 100 different labels, not counting orange wine, craft beers and a bar counter that as well as classic cocktails has eight different twists to offer, from EggSpritz to Meggscal. The design of the premises was overseen by the architect Lula Ferrari, and provides for 45 covers in the main space, 12 outside and 20 or so in the wine cellar on the floor below, which can also be booked for dinners and events. 
Where: Via Solferino, 35

Ultramarino

Ultramarino, a winery in the Porta Venezia area is the place for “natural wines and sea lovers,” and aims to pay tribute to the sea and to the Mediterranean culture, with interior design that straddles contemporary and shabby chic. With tables extending out onto the pavement, Ultramarino tells its own story through Italian, Spanish and Portuguese wines, and sharing platters featuring Sicilian seafood and cured meats, anchovies, Pan y Tomate, Russian Salad and Montaditos to rival any Spanish bodega. The idea for the project came from Alessandro Longhin, founder of Botanical Club, Champagne Socialist and Chihuahua Tacos, along with Luca Genova, of Tuorlo Media. A tasting experience with some surprises in store, like the galleys of the ships that once transported treasures, as stories and legend would have it.
Where: Via Lambro, 9

Ribot Borghetto

How about supper in the garden, under the stars? Moving slightly away from the city centre to the Greco district, near to the Bicocca University, the elegant, welcoming and cosy atmosphere at Ribot Borghetto – the third venture by the Ribot team, after the traditional restaurant at San Siro and the bistro in Piazza Firenze – tells of traditional, Tuscan-inspired cuisine, authentic flavours and Italian pride. Meat lovers are sure to be tempted by the flavour and extraordinarily high quality of the ribs, Steak Tartare, tagliate, cutlets and fillets, accompanied by fresh, seasonal vegetables. It boasts an open cellar, boiserie wall panels, wooden furnishings, a piano, pictures with equestrian prints and champions green as the main colour, sober and sophisticated and much loved in Milanese homes. The interior design, conceived by Niccolò Frediani and the architect Walter Zunino, like the garden, transmit the traditional Ribot ambiance, calling to mind the charm of the equestrian world as well as that of old Milan, with the rail link and the case di ringhiera popular housing.
Where: Via Comune Antico, 1

Horto Restaurant

Already a must for Milan’s fine diners, and with a Michelin Star and the Green Star for sustainability to boot, Horto welcomes its guests to a panoramic rooftop, right at the top of the renovated historic Medelan palazzo, bang in the city centre. The co-founders, Osvaldo Bosetti and Diego Panizza, follow an ethic that champions the territory by selecting seasonal raw materials in collaboration with farms, dairies and producers less than an hour from Milan. The same philosophy is reflected in the cuisine of chef Norbert Niederkofler and executive chef Alberto Toè, with dishes such as Cow's Milk Curd, Varzese Beef Carpaccio and Sturgeon Caviar and Risotto creamed with nettle cream, venison carpaccio, red berries. Horto is a sophisticated venue, with natural and reclaimed finishes and materials - the floor is made from old vinegar barrels, the plaster on the walls from rice processing waste and the chef’s table from an old, recovered cedar. The project concept was coordinated by Luisa Collina, while GLA (Genius Loci Architettura) was responsible for both the interior design and the building renovation.
Where: Via S. Protaso, 5

Creda

Authenticity and flavours that speak to its roots, Creda is a popular new gastronomic concept, with its counter, kitchen, dining room and even little tables outside in the summertime. Everything here draws on the origins of the two young founders from Campania, chefs Crescenzo Morlando and Dario Pisani, their respect for the tradition and love that only the memories and grandmothers’ recipes can reawaken. They have both chalked up experience in renowned starred restaurants, and worked for years for the La Cucina Italiana cookery school. Their cuisine features genuine, high quality ingredients, with take-away products to gladden the hearts of customers. Daily staples on the deli counter include aubergine parmigiana (fried of course!), meatballs with ragù, sautéed broccoli and savoury pies. Also not to be missed are the sea urchins with garlic, oil, chilli pepper and crusco pepper and the marinated salt cod: all freshly made. Simple dishes, designed to revive memories while savouring reawakened emotions.
Where: Via Orti, 12

Bar Paradiso

A small, 40 m2 venue with limited seating: Bar Paradiso is a mix of local hostelry and French bar à vin, sporting a generous red awning. It’s already become a firm favourite with the Milanese. As well as sought-after wines, it offers plates such as focaccia and mortadella, Italian pickled vegetables and ciauscolo sausage from the Marches with pecorino and smoked mozzarella. Maurizio Tentella and Saro Pomario were on the lookout for an authentic place and came across this old Fifties dairy. Numero 10 Architetti was responsible for the project, which focused on traditional elements such as the grit floor, wooden chairs with vintage charm and designer lamps, such as the Light Ball by the Castiglioni Brothers. Also worthy of note are the pieces of furniture signed by NM3, a studio led by Nicolò Ornaghi, Francesco Zorzi and Delfino Sisto Legnani, which creates products related to metal carpentry without skimping on strong geometric rigour.
Where: Via Tiraboschi, 4

Trattoria della Gloria

Part bistro, part pub, certainly a “genuine” place. Situated in the Navigli district, in the spaces of the historic Trattoria della Gloria, it has been relaunched by six new partners, three of whom are actively involved, all 30-year-olds - Tommaso Melilli, a well-known writer and chef with experience honed in Paris presiding over the kitchen; Luca Gennati, a multi-graduate and art curator in the dining room, and the sommelier Rocco Galasso who ran a natural wine bar for years. The dining room walls are hung with drawings by Ico Parisi, and the venue can seat around 25 people, while the outdoor area can accommodate 20. Apart from some white paint with a touch of pink and removing the checked table cloths, the three partners have added some William Morris wallpaper, a tall island table and overlaid the counter with handcrafted zinc, acquiring both the stools and outdoor chairs from a second-hand dealer. The lighting includes pieces by Achille Castiglioni, Matteo Thun and Gerd Lange. The menu changes slightly every day, but (fortunately) minestrone is always on the menu, hot in winter and cold in summer, as is the much-loved liver paté with raisin bread and a twist on tiramisu containing bread instead of sponge fingers, mascarpone and no eggs.
Where: Via Mario Pichi, 5

Contraste

Last but very much not least, Contraste, the starred restaurant overseen by the chef Matias Perdomo, in a 1900s palazzo and accessed through a small iron gate, makes for a theatrical setting after a bold restyling project by Debonademeo Studio. The interior design evokes the ancient communicating rooms, each made autonomous thanks to an opening and closing system of full-height velvet draped curtains. With the skilful use of theatrical backdrops, the architects transformed the main hall into four areas that follow one another in a sequence of primary and full colours, warm and cold tones, rough and matt surfaces and finishes, from the vinyl floor with bands of pink, blue, light grey and anthracite terrazzo to the elegant boiserie. The interior underscores the creative identity of the tasting menus: Riflessi e Riflessioni, making for a potent mix of surprise and amazement fuelled by ingredients that aren’t quite what they seem (do fake strawberries or donuts ring a bell?). Thus, among the 19th century stuccoes and frescoes, contemporary pieces such as the fluorescent yellow trolleys and metal lamps, all designed by the architects, stand out, as do the wallpapers created with Wall&Decò, the floating lamps by Karman, the Ester chairs and the Inox tables by Pedrali.
Where: Via Giuseppe Meda, 2